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Foodventure!

“Senene” (Kiswahili) or “Nsenene” (Kihaya) is a variety of grasshopper gathered during September, October, and November (sometimes March/April, but rarely). They used to be collected in the villages, but modern times and electric lights have revolutionized the gathering technique, so most of them are gathered via brights lights and sheet metal in town. Once gathered, they are fried and lightly seasoned and offered as an appetizer to lunch and dinner guests. Not gonna lie, this is one of my favorite hospitality traditions I’ve encountered so far. I have a strict “try everything at least once” policy, especially when I’m traveling, so I am happy to give a full report.

The little guys are yellow with tiny black eyes, and the legs have been removed, so they look a little bit like jaundiced sardines. They have a nice, hollow, crispy sensation when you bite them, like wafer cookies but more exoskeleton-y. The thorax retains some of the oil from frying, giving a pleasant little greasy surprise to the palate, not unlike the tip of a Bugle corn snack. The seasoning makes them savory, so they go down easy. It wasn’t long before I was taking them by the handful.

I have known for some time that insects make up most of the protein in the majority of the global population’s diet, so I have been anticipating eating bugs for a while now. When Father Kamanzi mentioned that his people sometimes eat grasshoppers, I instantly asked if I could try some. Due to the limited window for gathering, they aren’t available to eat all year long; I managed to be here right at the tail-end of the eating season, so Fr. Kamanzi’s brother, Honoratus, very kindly offered them. I don’t think that Nsenene have quite the cultural significance of Kamwani, but it’s close. I am constantly humbled by this constant display of hospitality!